Wow, have things changed at Breitling. A few short years ago, if I told you that reasonably sized, gorgeous manual wind chronographs were on the horizon, would you have believed me? Well, the Premier Chronograph 40 line is hereMy how the worm has turned regarding Breitling. Just several short years ago, the brand seemed intent on producing the biggest most garish watches on the planet. Since that time, bit by bit, the quality releases have just kept coming. Watches like the Premier, the Chronomat, the Aviator 8, and the Superocean Heritage 57 are just some of the renaissance pieces. Breitling has faithfully grasped its heritage while focusing on finishing that can easily party with other brands in the space. Am I little biased? You bet, but let me explain before we get to the Premier Chronograph 40.
A word before we jump inIts hard for me to write an article on a Breitling without mentioning Fred Mandelbaum. Hes a good friend and hes someone I got to know well before Georges Kern came to Breitling. When it comes to Fred, he bleeds Breitling. His knowledge about the companys history and his passion for collecting are both impressive and contagious. But, wow, was he depressed about his favorite brand pre-Kern. When Georges arrived and decided to bring Fred aboard in what Id liken to an enhanced advisory role, we (a group of us vintage bandidos) were all cautiously optimistic. Then, we saw things coming along and were more than hopeful.Still, when you have a good friend who pumps a lot of effort into something and it doesnt turn out so well, what do you do? Thankfully, I havent been placed in that uncomfortable position yet. Simply put, Breitling is making some great sh*t these days and theres so much more on the way. Todays new Premier Chronograph 40 is the latest step and Im so pleased.
The Breitling Premier Chronograph 40Youre going to see three articles today with new models from the Premier Heritage Collection. All are gorgeous in my book and deserve real consideration, but well start with the volume leader. The Premier Chronograph 40 is a new line consisting of two pieces at this time. I say that because I am sure we will see additional dial colors and materials as time passes. For now, Breitling is offering a stainless steel model with a wildly different pistachio green dial and an 18K red gold version with silver dial. Both models come on differing shades of 20mm brown alligator straps with folding buckles.
To provide a little context here, Breitling currently offers a Premier chronograph. These however, have all been automatics and in 42mm. The Premier Chronograph 40 loses 2mm and, most importantly, uses a manual wind chronometer grade in-house B09. This movement features 70 hours of power reserve and ticks along at 28,800vph. Functionally, it has a 30 minute counter at 3:00 and running seconds at 9:00.
Heritage vibes with modern touchesTheres no doubt that the Premier Chronograph 40 is a classic chronograph. One could call it a retro piece of sorts because it brings in plenty of cues from 40s and 50s Premier models such as the one above (Freds of course). However, there are certainly modern touches here. In addition to a chronograph certification, these pieces contain a screw in display back, a very usable 100 meters of water resistance, and a domed sapphire crystal. Also, the syringe hands use white Super-LumiNova. Thickness, if youre curious, is a reasonable 13.08mm.Versus their larger automatic siblings, the Premier Chronograph 40 collection features applied Arabic numerals and I think they look wonderful. Breitling opted to keep flat pushers, which lend a dressier look versus the typical round pump style. Were also told that theres a lot more work behind reaching 100 meters of water resistance with non round pushers. A historically correct largish crown completes the look on the right side and should make winding a pleasurable and tactile experience. In keeping with the modern Premier theme, the case flanks have striping.
Thoughts on the new Premier Chronograph 40 lineIll be very curious to read the comments on the new Premier Chronograph 40 and the rest of the Premier Heritage modelsespecially after I make the following statements. There are plenty of people who look for classically styled chronographs and there are plenty of options at all price levels. However, when youre talking about a dressy in-house manual chronograph without crazy complications, there is almost nothing unless youre willing to consider a new Speedmaster Professional as something dressy. If you add in a wish for stainless steel, forget about it unless youre able to land something like a Habring. That basically gives these new Breitling models a virtual monopoly in one of my favorite spaces.It also helps that the Premier Chronograph 40 is drop dead gorgeous. Whether you consider steel or gold, both look spot on to me and I really like the green dial on that medium brown strap. Serious kudos to Breitling for playing with color on the more approachable model and offering a traditional knockout in gold. The little things rock on these modelscheck the serifs on the word Chronograph on the dial for exampleand that shows some real attention to detail.
Pricing and availabilityThe Breitling Premier Chronograph 40 will retail for 7,400 in steel and 16,200 in gold. Theres no doubt about it that these are luxury products, but these are unique right now and, in my view, just beautiful. The other nice thing is that they should arrive in boutiques beginning next week. And just when I thought my wallet would take a breatherFor more information on the Breitling Premier Chronograph 40 line, visit the official site.Watch specificationsBrandBreitlingModelPremier Chronograph 40ReferenceAB0930D31L1P1 (Steel), RB0930371G1P1 (Red Gold)DialSteel - Pistachio Green, Red Gold - Silver. Both with Super-LumiNova? luminescent hour and minute hands Case MaterialStainless Steel or 18K Red GoldCase Dimensions40mm Diameter, 13.08mm Thickness, 20mm Lug Width, 47.65mm Lug to LugCrystalCambered sapphire, glareproofed on both sidesCase BackScrew-in, sapphire crystal displayMovementBreitling Manufacture Caliber B09, Hand Winding, 28,800vph, 70 hours power reserveWater Resistance100 metersStrapBrown alligator with folding claspFunctionsTime (HH:MM) with central mounted chronograph, 30 minute sub register, running seconds sub registerPrice7,400 (Steel), 16,200 (Red Gold)WarrantyFive YearsSpecial Note(s)Available April 2021