Dont say the words heritage re-issue. Its become a sometimes tiresome term over the past few years, with every brand under the Sun mining its back catalog for inspiration, only to artificially age the resulting re-issue so it looks both new and old at once. The Caplan brothers of Topper Jewelers in Burlingame, CA, dont seem to mind being inspired by the past with the latest limited edition to hit their shelves. But with the Oris a Topper Jewelers collaboration, you find any pre-aging whatsoever. Instead, you have an entirely new piece inspired by perhaps the brands most inventive period. Intrigued? So was IIve worked with Rob and Russ personally during my time with NOMOS Glashutte. They are, to say the least, characters. Their enthusiasm for watches and creative projects knows no bounds. Consequently, theyve managed to charm more brands than one could shake a stick at into making limited editions for them and their dedicated clientele.And thats the thing about Topper Jewelers in Burlingame, CA. It is very much a family business and that extends to the customers too. The brothers grandfather Arthur worked for their great uncle who had acquired the business around 1947 after it had been founded seven years earlier in 1940. In the 60s, their father Bill joined the show. Russ followed in the 80s and Rob completed the set at the turn of this century. Their customers are more like a gang of friends that congregate at store events to collect whatever madcap creation the pair have dreamed-up most recently. Invariably, everybody leaves with a smile on their face.
A beige kind of guyI know that firsthand. In fact, on more than occasion, I almost missed a flight out of the nearby San Francisco International because time ran away from me in the company of so many watch addicts. Its no surprise to me, then, that this latest project is something I find interesting. Just?how interesting I found it, however, was a bit of a surprise.
When news of this release, landed in my mailbox I cast a cursory eye over. At first, I thought I would just write it up quicklyI wasnt so sure I got the angle the brothers had gone for this time. After all, I am actually?one of those numpties that perpetuates this new-old trend that irks so many of you. Sorry about that, but I like fauxtina. I cant explain it. I guess Im just a beige kind of guy
Oh manAnyway, the new Oris a Topper collab seemed cold to me at first. Oh man, I said to myself, wheres the eggshell? Wheres the pumpkin? Wheres the burnt sienna, man? Its so cleanIts so freshMan, it almost looks?new.
Good grief. Imagine that. Something?new in 2020. Whod have thought it possible? Id almost forgotten it was But here we have it: ticking-proof that brands can still do something new and be praised for it. And sure, neither the dial layout nor its design is new. The colorway is satisfyingly modern and the little flashes of orange on the seconds hand and for the lume pip at 12 (which, although not super clear on the photos does actually glow in the dark, emitting a cool yellow light in contrast to the dial and hands) give the whole affair the right amount of fizz. But the case proportions paired with this dial set-up? Well, thats what really got me going.
A dateless wonderThis is the second collab between Topper Jewelers and Oris. The first came in 2016. Back then, the 65 Diver that became the subject of the Caplans first limited Oris run was 40mm. This time? This time we have a 42mm case on the always-classy Oris Diver 65 riveted bracelet. This dateless wonder has a super clean dial (which is accentuated by the box-fresh color scheme). Designed to look as if this watch were being sold brand new in 1965 (which would have been the stores 25th anniversary), this addition to the Diver 65 catalog could be a bit of a gamechanger.
And thats not because its design is so shocking that it knocked me off my seat (it didnt), but it is because this new size when paired with this dial configuration and the different proportions of the watch on the wrist really change the look of this model. In the same way, there is a perceptible difference between the silhouette of a Submariner and Sea-Dweller, here too is something individual. Something differentsomething that I personally prefer.
An actually limited limited (better get your skates on)Cruelly, there will only be 165 of these pieces made. To make matters worse, they will go on sale for $2,450, which suggests to me they wont be around for so long. Whenever Oris drops these awesome limited editions I find myself simultaneously happy that the brand didnt go crazy with the number, but also wishing there was more of a chance to get one of them.
A piece like this could, in my opinion, have handled a run size of 1,965 pieces quite comfortably. But, as always, time will tell. If youre interested, make it known swiftly. Shipping will commence in December 2020. The watch will be packaged up with some cool retro gifts that are supposed to transport the buyer back to the 1965 shopping experience that they couldve enjoyed in the Topper store of old.
A portion of the proceeds of the sale of each Diver 1965 Edition will be donated to the CuriOdyssey Museum, in support of a new exhibit, which will be launching in the fall. Located a short drive from Topper's own downtown location, CuriOdyssey is a unique science and wildlife center that helps children acquire the tools they need to understand and appreciate our changing world C a mission that simultaneously aligns with Oris' commitment to conservation, and Topper's ongoing tradition of supporting the future generations of its local community.Learn more about this initiative and the watch here.